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Where to eat and drink in Ronda, Spain

The Andalusian city of Ronda, an hour and 20 minute drive from Malaga airport, has one of the most spectacular locations in Spain, sitting high on cliffs that drop off into the El Tajo gorge. The views from the parador in the centre of the city would give you vertigo, and if you have a fear of heights it's best not to look down, but if not you'll feel like you're on top of the world.



It's not just about the views either. There's enough wine bars, tapas bars and top end restaurants to make it a draw for gastro tourists, and the fact that it's an excellent wine producing region with multiple wineries within 20 minutes of the centre is the icing on the already delicious cake.


Breakfast


La Casa del Jamón


Ooh heaven is a place on earth, and it's called the house of jamón in Ronda. This sprawling shop and café has been sitting in the same spot since 1989, and you'll still see founder Leocadio Corbacho Bocanegra slicing ham behind the counter. The simple breakfast menu features bread rolls stuffed with jamón of every age and price, but our favourite was the pan con tomate topped with the very finely chopped stuff.



It's all available to take home, as well as tinned fish, cheese, honey, spices, and all of the locally made wines. Prepare to drop a serious amount of cash in here if you're lacking restraint (as you should be on holidays).



Cafetería La Esquina


For a breakfast that won't break your bank account with retail takeaways, Cafetería La Esquina is the simple Spanish diner to fill all of your your tortilla, churros and café con leche needs - at bargain basement prices. Expect a substantial breakfast for two to come in at under €10.



Tapas


15 Arroba Wine Bar


If you're in Ronda to get to know the local wines, ear-mark some quality time at 15 Arroba. On our visit they had close to 100 wines by the glass (and no we don't know how they keep them all fresh but we had no complaints). Ask staff for recommendations based on what you like, or take a lucky dip - with most wines coming in at €3.50 - €4.50 you haven't got much to lose.



The tapas-based food menu is perfect drinking fodder, with gildas, Cantabrian anchovies on toast, and tuna tataki to snack on while you sip, and as with nearly all Spanish restaurants, they're very child friendly if little ones are with you.



El Lechuguita


You won't need help spotting El Lechuguita - it's the tapas bar with the queue trailing down the street. There since 1969, they say they want to represent the cultural tradition of tapas, and preserve one of the bastions of Andalusia - gastronomy. Their signature tapa is the "little lettuce" in a garlic vinaigrette, and much of their tapas are priced at just over €1 - no wonder there's a queue. Tick off what you want on the order pad and soak up the buzzing atmosphere while you wait.



Tapas Bar Elias


There's a 0% chance you won't fall in love with quaint little Tapas Bar Elias, run by very charming Señors who have a whole schtick about giving you a bottle of "the best wine in the world" when you leave. In reality it's a €2 Ribera del Duero, but it has the desired effect of making their customers feel extra special.



Simple fish, meat and vegetable dishes are done to a standard you wish you could replicate at home, and a cold glass of Vermouth while browsing the menu is the only way to do it.



Dinner


Bardal


If you're a star chaser, Benito Gomez's two Michelin-starred Bardal should be on your radar. Catalan by birth, he's now one of the leading chefs in Andalusia, with much of the produce coming from the restaurant's farm. There's a choice of two tasting menus for €180 or €215, and the cheese trolley is a highlight.



Tragatá


Can't stretch to a two-star bill? You're in luck. Benito Gomez has a more every (wo)man restaurant around the corner - Tragatá. It buzzes with couples, friends and families from early until late, and the menu is modern Spanish, with unexpected flavour combos.



Try the brioche with sheep's butter and smoked sardines, the fish in green pil pil sauce, and don't miss the sweet olive torta with chocolate, nuts and orange for dessert.



Ice-cream


Black coffee


The name might say coffee, but for us Black Coffee is all about the ice-cream in this little café on Plaza España. It's all good but we love the Spanish version of rum and raisin with Malaga Wine or PX Sherry, and you can get the best of both with an affogato.



Wine


Entre Vinos


In demand wine bar Entre Vinos is one of the best places to taste your way through Ronda's wines, with loads on by the glass (starting at €2), and everything you can think of by the bottle. There's very reasonably priced tapas too, and when we visited staff didn't have great English so you might want to have Google on hand to research the wine options - otherwise "una copa de vino blanco/tinto por favor" will do the job.



Pura Cepa


Wine bar Pura Cepa has become a bit of a mini chain in the Costa del Sol with three locations, but it's no worse off for it. This is definitely a place you'll find more tourist prices than local, but the terrace, the service and the quality of the food and wine means you probably won't care. You can also book a Ronda Wine Experience if you really want to dive in.



Milamores wine visits


If you're interested in seeing a Ronda vineyard and winery, your best bet is Milamores, who organise visits to four of the best. Tours and tastings cost €25 - €30 per person, and you'll need transportation to get to the vineyard where you'll meet your guide. We had an interesting visit to Bad Man Wines (named after owners Sinbad and Manuel), but we have F. Schatz, one of the pioneers of biodynamic farming in the region on the list for next time. Book here.



Vinalium


Looking for hooch to take home? Head to Vinalium, for a brilliantly broad selection of wines from Ronda and across Spain. Staff are happy to tell you about their favourites, and they sell top quality glassware at madly low prices in case you have room in your suitcase.



Hotels


We stayed at the four-star Hotel Catalonia Reina Victoria, which has jaw-dropping views across the valley below, a stunning drinks terrace, and an outdoor spa area. Room were modern and spacious, and the best ones have a balcony with more of those views. We paid €180 for a double room with balcony and would go back in a heartbeat.



2 Comments


kajokec fosetrsd
Aug 24

From the historic La Casa del Jamón for a savory breakfast to the Michelin-starred Bardal for an exquisite dinner, the city's food scene caters to all tastes and budgets. Don't miss out on the local tapas bars like El Lechuguita and Tapas Bar Elias for an authentic experience, and if you're a wine lover, Entre Vinos and Pura Cepa are perfect for exploring regional varieties. Whether you're savoring jamón or indulging in fine dining, Ronda’s culinary scene is as stunning as its landscapes. neal fun

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solara greement
Aug 20

With both objective information and insightful commentary, this post was a joy to read. that's not my neighbor

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