What should we know about Le Petit Renard?
Dublin’s new wave of wine bars just keeps on building, with Kimmage the latest suburban shore it’s lapped up on. Le Petit Renard comes courtesy of couple Romain Tessier and Suzanne Hodgkinson, one of whose four Artybaker outlets is right round the corner. It’s walk-in only so have a backup plan in mind if you’re not a local - D12's pent-up demand for a space like this had us turned away on our first few tries. We eventually got in through grit and determination.
What should we have?
With all but three of the wine menu’s selections available by the glass, Le Petit Renard lends itself better to casual sipping and snacking than full blow-out feast – especially given the wines are all available to buy at the owners’ grocery just two doors down. We started with a pet nat rosé from reliable Romanian producer La Sapata, light and dry with rich raspberry notes, as well-tuned to the humid tease of a Dublin summer evening as to the small pot of mini saucissons we matched it with. These dry-cured sausages – variously studded with chorizo, blue cheese and walnut – are mild and moreish, a solid snack to sample while the more substantial fare is put together.
(Carrying on from this week's Instagram wine pour convo, they don't list the glass size on the menu, but we guessed 175ml - they felt generous)
We passed on the chorizo, prosciutto and (more) saucisson of the charcuterie board and chose cheese instead. Strawberry, peach and kiwi added a seasonal touch to the all-French offering, though the board struck us as decidedly tilted toward fruit over fromage – better balance needed here, and perhaps a touch more variety too. There’s plenty to enjoy in the Brie, Camembert and goat’s cheese, but a blue for variety would have gone down well, and paired better with the plump fig chutney.
Given the Artybaker pedigree, bread is essential, and we indulged via the homemade roast red pepper dip. The crusty sourdough and light-as-you-like focaccia are a formidable pair for first scooping, than sponging every last drop of this concentrated burst of flavour. Expect to fall out over who gets to mop up the last of it. With those we drank the Crego e Monaguillo Godello, and found its well-rounded lemon, pear and minerality stood up well to the variety of flavours flying around.
Vermouth over ice was too tempting to pass up at this time of year, and played well off a dessert of flaky sea salt and hazelnut-encrusted chocolate mousse. It’s not hard to see why this deceptively light dollop is the solo choice – its encore appeal is an exceptional way to cap off an evening, and evidence aplenty of where Le Petit Renard should have no trouble in attracting a loyal local crowd.
Why should I go?
If you’re anywhere nearby, this one’s a no-brainer – Le Petit Renard is the kind of new neighbour we're all ready to welcome. It's a lively space to start off or wind down an evening out, where you might spot a free table in passing and be sat at it before you can say un vin blanc s'il vous plaît. For those further afield, it’s worth taking your chances – just don’t say we didn’t warn you.
Le Petit Renard
6 Sundrive Road, Kimmage, Dublin 12
