We do our best, in our seasonal sum-ups, to share the love and show off as many of Dublin’s chefs and bakers as we can, but some lean in so well to the in-season game that we can’t help feature them time and again. As we survey the spoils of early autumn, we’d be remiss not to note the shock shuttering of Bread Man Walking, the Rialto microbakery that gave this column fodder through every last season until the cruel eye of the planners called time. It’s a great loss to the city, though we’re glad to see the work will go on in other guises – including at this weekend’s Harvest Fair in Inchicore. There, as in here, we’re sure the best of the season will be on show...
Apple and whiskey cruller, Coppinger
If ever a phrase were guaranteed to put a dish on our radar, it would have to be “it’s not for the faint-hearted”. Irish to its core down to the granny-sourced apples, Coppinger’s cruller (that’s deep-fried choux to me and you) comes with an offer of a €10 Redbreast 12 shot they recommend you douse the lot in – sure ‘tis the season.
Tomatoes and hazelnuts, Little Forest
The seasonal segue from late summer to early autumn is guiding things at Little Forest, where the last of the summer tomatoes from the ever-excellent McNally Family Farm meet in-their-prime hazelnuts (a low-key MVP of this time of year) in a simple torch-passing testament to what we love about September. Fatty, chewy curds and generous helpings of fresh herbs seal the deal.
Venison pie, The Legal Eagle
Our current, hopefully not too short-lived Indian summer might keep us clear of autumnal richness for another while yet, but once the nights close in and the mercury plummets we can see ourselves making a beeline for The Legal Eagle and this indulgent venison pie. It’s game on for game season – here’s the early one to beat.
Pumpkin, chocolate and hazelnut loaf, Two Boys Brew
We’ve banged on before about how the best part of short-term seasonality is the tantalising wait for great ingredients to return, and the wish fulfilment of finally digging in. Two Boys Brew have played that up by bringing back an old favourite of autumns past with this pumpkin, chocolate and hazelnut loaf. Get gorging yourselves while you can.
Espresso and hazelnut Paris-Brest, Elliot’s
We’re not sure whether to eat this one or frame it – no stranger to seasonality surprises, Elliot’s have gone all-out with this autumnal ode. The crisp crunch of choux au craquelin encases toasted hazelnut praline, with a whipped Cloud Picker espresso ganache and toasted hazelnuts rounding it all out.
Fig and apricot tart, Daddy’s
While we’ve gone wild sticking figs in savoury salads and sourdough pizzas over the last few weeks – is there anything they go better with than Cashel Blue? – this sweet treatment from Daddy’s had our head turned. End-of-season apricots and the autumnal classic of almond frangipane share their sweet shortcrust pastry case for a simple showcase of this fruit’s juicy best.
Turbot and truffle, Chapter One
The king of fishes is at its very best around this time of year, and we trust nobody more than the king of dishes to give it its due. Chapter One by Mikael Viljanen’s turbot treatment is always worthy of an advance booking – cross everything you’ve got for a cancellation otherwise – with end-of-season black truffle and French-style curry sauce playing into this year’s take.
Blueberry cruffin, Bread 41
With cruffin cross-sections that would make a Jackson Pollock canvas look neat, Bread 41 always lean into the seasons with a sultry take we can’t turn down. Blueberries are this month’s pick with a dense jam swirled through their flawless crème pat filling. We reckon we’d be all in without the little white chocolate chip blondie studded on top, but who are we to say no?
Risotto misto funghi, Gigi’s
This is the time of year where mushrooms, although an annual all-rounder, get really abundant, with prime examples like ceps and chanterelles turning up all over the place. Gigi’s have put a trio of girolle, shiitake and porcini into this risotto misto, and look at all of those earthy, autumnal colours.
Harissa lamb with apricot coulis, Old Street
For all we might associate lamb with Easter, what winds up on our plates then has been born out of the natural lambing cycle, indoors in the depths of winter – a very human intervention in the natural seasonal cycle. Now is the much better time to dig in, and how better than with Old Street’s harissa-marinated rump, served alongside an apricot coulis and purple spuds.
Blackberry buns, Fable
Blackberry bushes are beginning to bulge, and here come Fable to make the most of them. They’ve stewed the berries down with autumn apples into a thick jam, stuffed it all into flaky pastry buns buried beneath lashings of pink peppercorn cream, and topped off with a generous sprinkle of buckwheat crumble. It’s a long way from how we were rared.
Autumn menu, Glas
We (clearly) believe every new season is worthy of celebration, and the folks over at Glas are in agreement. Their autumn menu launches tonight with their annual tasting event, but you can get the vibrant veggie inventions a la carte all season long. It all looks great but the pairing of beetroot meringue and black garlic ice cream in a saffron babka is the one we’re most intrigued by.
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