It’s more re-openings than anything else in this roundup - whether it's yesteryear’s favourites back under new management, or recent closures refitted to more favourable tastes, the recent crop of arrivals is evidence of the harsh sink-or-swim reality of Dublin’s hospitality biz today...
Suertudo, Ranelagh
Much RAI hand-wringing followed the news last month that Dillinger’s was to close after 15 years of business in Ranelagh, but the doors will only have stayed shut less than two weeks – less dire omen of an industry on the brink than a restaurateur realising when reinvention is needed. Suertudo looks set to ride the rising Mexican wave that’s crashing in on Dublin of late, taking cues from owner John Farrell’s city centre 777, and looking to challenge newbie neighbour Parrilla. Its pitch is “elevated” Mexican cuisine, and while we’d like to see that low-key dismissive term consigned to the bin, there’s plenty on the menu like octopus chicharrón and Acapulco ceviche we’d like to elevate to our mouths.
One Ballsbridge, Ballsbridge
Suertudo is Spanish for lucky, so it might have made a better name for One Ballsbridge. Here, Oliver Dunne is following in the ill-fated footsteps of Dylan McGrath and Richard Corrigan, whose respective efforts at the site in Shelbourne Social and Park Cafe came to untimely ends in recent years. A decade on from dropping his Michelin star at Bon Appetit to move more downmarket, Dunne has found mid-market success across the capital with restaurants like Pink and Beef and Lobster, and seems buoyant on his chances of success where his famous forebears failed. A broadly crowd-pleasing menu that goes big on beef and some enthusiastic early reviews suggest he has a good chance.
Vada, Smithfield
Dublin’s vegans were dismayed at the loss of V-Face back in August, becoming the third such spot in the Smithfield area to shutter inside of two years, after Vegan Sandwich Co and Woke Cup Café before it. Vada is its replacement from the same owner, a neighbourhood café committed to sustainability, with doggy treats made from leftovers by far the cutest manifestation of that philosophy we’ve seen in a while. The menu, big on soups and sandwiches with a luxury touch, got the seal of approval from the previous tenants, who neglected to mention they’re one and the same... Our two minute review is here for those seeking a more impartial opinion.
Forêt, Sussex Avenue
A rave wave of reviews came crashing down over the past week for Forêt, the new classic French bistro from John and Sandy Wyer of Forest Avenue, Little Forest, and Una fame – with pedigree like that, it’s hardly a shock. The Wyers have always showed shrewd sensibilities through their covid-era pivots to grocery service, and this latest addition – slotting in right beside Forest Avenue, above M’ O’Brien’s pub – can trade on the name while offering something more laidback than the tasting menu below. Bayonne ham, leeks vinaigrette, onion velouté, hake grenobloise and trout rillettes - it’s all here, and we can’t wait to be too.
Old Fashioned Sam’s, Montague Street
The ongoing evolution of Montague Street into one of Dublin’s hot spots continues with Old Fashioned Sam’s, whose 900-strong capacity across four self-contained areas spread over three floors positions it much more on the Harcourt than Camden Street side of things, conceptually as much as literally. The purpose-built venue (Credo pizzeria was knocked down to make way) is the new crown jewel in a varied empire spanning through city centre joints like Sinnott’s and Capitol Lounge, through more suburban fare like 3 Brothers and the Black Lion. The daytime café bar will complement a basement-level speakeasy and ground floor all-weather courtyard, while the 80-cover restaurant upstairs has some eye-catching offerings such as lion’s mane steak and a bread bowl clam chowder.
The Unicorn, Merrion Row
You know the boom’s getting boomier when Celtic Tiger-era stalwarts are back in action – forget about unicorns, here’s a phoenix risen from the ashes. Having changed hands a great many times since originally opening nigh-on ninety years ago, The Unicorn is giving it another go under Kristan Burness, who briefly ran things a decade ago before making a living with Lucan’s Sabatini and The Dalkey Duck. They’re keeping things broadly nostalgic, with old menu favourites back on the billing for an Italian-style menu in a high-end space. A wine bar, In Vino Veritas, will offer a piano-soundtracked space to repair after dinner.
Coming Soon...
Wildflower
The rollercoaster ride of Wildflower, Adrian Martin’s pandemic-era opener that debuted in London before hopping over the Irish Sea for an ill-fated few months in Dublin, is set to continue with a second shot at things. No details yet, but they’re coming soon.
The Ribs Gaucho BBQ
Breathlessly teasing every facet of its gaucho BBQ offering as if it hadn’t already been available in Dublin since 2020, The Ribs opens its Strand Street doors at an undisclosed date later this month. Will its take on the Brazilian tradition, served from the skewer at tableside, make a dent in Bah 33’s market lead?
French Revolution
“A taste of France wrapped in today’s warmth” isn’t going to win any awards for copy writing; lucky then that a picture is worth a thousand less weird words. Romanian chain French Revolution make exceedingly pretty eclairs, and the word from some of our Insiders in the know is that they taste just as good too. Watch this space for location details - we've heard Dun Laoghaire but that's TBC.
