Lena

What should we know about Lena?

It's the new neighbourhood Italian that's taken the place of Locks in Portobello, from the trio who brought us Uno Mas, Enough said? That trio are Paul McNamara (chef and former owner of Locks), along with couple Liz Matthews and Simon Barrett, who own one of Dublin's most consistently brilliant restaurants, Etto, and who later opened Uno Mas with McNamara - also in the very top tier of Dublin dining. It's safe to say that all three are among the best restaurant operators in the city, so the buzz around Lena has been LARGE.

What's changed since it was Lock's?

The room has had a clean sweep, with the studded velvet chairs removed in place of simple wooden furniture and leather banquette seating. It's all very soft and muted, and it's the same upstairs in the two private dining rooms. It seems that the soft velvet may have helped with the acoustics, as this many hard surfaces in a larger space than their other two restaurants is causing some sound issues - at times we were shouting across the table trying to be heard over the noise of happy diners all around. We're sure they're on the case, but for now we'd leave your granny at home.

Where are the best seats?

It was by the window in Locks and its by the window in Lena - especially if you're in for lunch. Those canal views are everything after a crazy week on the wheel of life, and if you like to eat on a soft rather than hard seat, go forth and request a table with a banquette. One of the biggest changes has been the new bar installed on the left of the restaurant - prime counter dining real estate with views into the kitchen. Solo diners will love these seats, and they're perfect for a quick pit stop if you don't have time to settle in for a few hours.

What should we eat?

Like in the other two restaurants, you'll be overwhelmed from all the snacks (antipasti) you'll want to order before even getting to the "primi" and "secondi". From olives and focaccia to prime imported charcuterie and deep-fried deliciousness, you'll need a cocktail while you pick it all apart - the peach spritz and orange garibaldi are ideal low abv openers.

The sage leaf and anchovy fritti (€8 for two) are Lena's answer to Uno Mas' gilda - if you come here and don't eat one, have you really been... The mink anchovies are meltingly soft, sidled up next to the perfumed sage in their crispy shells - it's a perfect bite while picking more - order it as soon as you sit.

The supplì al telefono (€9 for two), named for the thin cord of mozzarella between two halves when pulled apart resembling a telephone line, are very similar to the tomato and scamorza version that's one of sister restaurant Etto's signature dishes. If you haven't had supplì they're risotto filled croquettes, similar to arancini, deep-fried, with a cheesy centre. Peak bar snack stuff.

We were advised by a neighbouring table that the Lardo di Colonnata toast (€9) was a must order, and when it arrived we initially thought the strips of cured pig fat were cut too thickly, but we were wrong. They gradually melted from the warmth of the toast, and the bits hanging over the site practically dissolved on impact with our mouths - this is superior pig fat.

We hadn't planned on ordering the wild sea bass crudo (€15), but when owner Barrett said it was his favourite thing on the menu, what were we to do? There could not be a more perfect palate cleanser after the fried snacks to start, each mouthful of meaty fish, blood orange segments and juice, rosemary olive oil and pops of raw pink radish punching your palate back to life - simple flavours endlessly amplified. Plus, is there a more beautiful looking dish in Dublin right now?

Palate cleansed it was onto pasta, and having a soft spot for the worm-shaped pici, the cacio e pepe (€16) was always coming to our table. The pasta is perfect, the trademark pici chew perfected, but the sauce was assertively peppery, more than any other version we've had. If you love pepper, you'll love this, but we would have liked the scales to tip slightly more towards Pecorino. The peppery plate was practically licked clean regardless.

Osso bucco with saffron risotto (€32) is one of those "angels singing on high" dishes when in Northern Italy, a good one having the potential to stay with you until you're in the ground. This is a very, very good one, it's hard to imagine better actually, and if you've never had one of Italy's star dishes (which is very possible as we never see it on Dublin menus) go here and have one that's better than many in Milan. Beef shin is cooked for hours in a tomato, red wine and vegetable sauce, served on top of floral, sweet saffron risotto, and topped with lemony gremolata as the final flavour punch. (Sidenote: if you can get your hands on beef shin and want to try cooking this at home, Angela Hartnett's recipe tastes very similar)

Other mains include wild halibut (praise be for the lack of farmed fish), beef fillet with pickled onion rings (a nod to Locks), and a whopper bistecca alla Fiorentina to feed 2-3 (€115). There's also a barbecued pork chop with parsnip, coco de paimpol and salsa verde (€32). The smoky meat was pink and buttery, in stark contrast to most things that identify as a pork chop, with parsnip purée, creamy beans, crispy artichoke, bitter endive and tangy salsa verde providing lots of mix and match flavour combos. We enjoyed it a lot, but wouldn't consider it the same level of must order as the osso bucco.

Those Etto and Uno Mas crispy potatoes are here too, and rest assured it will be business as usual, so we ordered a side of hispi cabbage with tonnato sauce and capers (€6). The sweet, blackened hispi is as good as cabbage gets, while the rich tuna/anchovy/mayo sauce topped with salty fried capers made for luxury moppage.

Yet again we hadn't planned on ordering the chocolate, espresso and olive oil tart, but the manager twisted our arm by telling us we absolutely had to. It's more mousse than tart (getting the soft slices out in such perfect triangles is an applause-worthy achievement), sitting in a puddle of salt caramel and the best olive oil, with espresso ice cream and thin chocolate biscuit sitting on top. It's a dessert you'll moan over, then daydream about.

A final foray into a cloudlike, mildly boozy tiramisu with bountiful chocolate shavings on top sent us floating happily off into the night.

What about drinks?

Like at Etto and Uno Mas, the wine list is one to loiter over - maybe start your studying at home if this is your specialist subject. Bottles start at €33 for basic house white and red, and there's a good selection of glasses (all available in 500ml carafes too) starting at €7.50 and going up to €18 for sparkling Chardonnay.

There are wines from every region of Italy, each with a reason for being there, and it's obvious the list was put together with painstaking care and real love for the topic. There are five cocktails too, with a couple of low abvs at the top just the thing to settle you into those seats, as well as Italian and Irish beer, French cider, amari and grappa.

How was the service?

Just as lovely, charming and skilled as in their sister restaurants - these guys hire well and hold onto good people. Food was fast to start then nicely paced, which is no harm when you've sat down and are desperate for a snack to take the edge off.

And the damage?

€105 a head before tip for that feast of food, with a cocktail and four glasses of wine between two.

Anything else we should know?

The private dining rooms upstairs have had a subtle redesign and are crying out for your next group gathering.

What's the verdict on Lena?

The hype on this one has been big, and did anyone really doubt that Lena would deliver with these three at the helm? McNamara is a spectacular chef, someone who can scoop up ideas from around the globe and execute to perfection, giving the people what they want before they knew they wanted it. He's not trying to crowd please or play anybody's greatest hits, he's cooking dishes they way they're supposed to be cooked - big, bold, and with a face full of flavour.

Team those talents with operators like Matthews and Barrett ensuring wine, service, and dining rooms are effortlessly, expertly delivered, and it's a rare and captivating combination. Our first meal in Uno Mas was a lot like this one, and each meal afterwards just got better and better. We're predicting a similar upward trajectory for Lena.